Lucerne, Switzerland

Before I begin this quick post on Lucerne, I need to address something that's bothering me. These Switzerland posts are causing flashbacks to high school, when my math teacher, Mr. Marshall, would force us to sit through his grainy vacation slide shows from his trips to the Philippines, where his son was stationed in the military.

I have a sneaky, underlying suspicion that this series of vacation posts may somehow be the equivalent to Mr. Marshall's hideously boring slide shows. My only consolation is that you have the ability to skim--or skip them entirely at your will. Your grade will not be affected--and I promise not to assign extra homework. (Though I will make you stand with your nose in the corner.)

Okay, you've been given an out. And now the vacation post will resume...

 

Lucerne is famous for its bridges. It's located at the meeting point of the Reuss River and Lake Lucerne, in central Switzerland.

The bridge in these photos is known as the Water Tower Bridge, or "Wasserturm Brücke." It was built in the 14th century, as part of the town's defense system. Because of its location, Lucerne became a bustling trade center between northern and southern Europe by the 13th century.

(It is said that the swans who live here were a gift from the French King Louis XIV.)

 Large sections of the famous Water Tower Bridge burned in 1993, after a boat parked underneath it caught fire and sent sparks onto the wooden bridge. Many of the famous paintings inside the walkway of the bridge were lost. Entire sections had to be rebuilt. Boats are no longer allowed under the bridge. The swans must smoke elsewhere as well.

  Nearby is the Jesuit Church or Jesuitenkirche, a Romanesque church built in the 17th century. The Pope wanted to have a Catholic presence in Switzerland during the Protestant Revolution. This church was built to make the Catholics in Lucerne feel empowered. Time to kick ass and take names, Catholics!

 The interior is decorated in a Rococo style (c.1750.)...says the guidebook. All I know is, I'm with Team Rococo!

 

The decorations on the ceiling celebrate the life of Francis Xavier, co-founder of the Jesuit order. Dang bro, that hat's off the hook.

 

The Mill Bridge, or Spreuerbrücke, is the other famous bridge in Lucerne. This one is untouched and completely original, filled with 17-century paintings. There's also a small 16th-century chapel built within it (the small red outbuilding midway across,) which the local townspeople are in charge of decorating year round.

Inside the bridge are amazing painted scenes from Lucerne and Swiss history. (Also inside: a lot of annoying children.)

All of the paintings have skeletons somewhere in them. It was said that the presence of these skeletons was a daily reminder to the townspeople who crossed the bridge, that nobody could escape death. The Swiss equivalent to Debbie Downer, I suppose.

 

The mountains surrounding Lucerne are really breathtaking. We were lucky enough to spend the day with no rain, though the threat was always there.

 

Lake Lucerne was quiet in late Fall. In the summer time, all the boats are out the lake cruising and playing chicken with one another.

 

We walked around the lake and headed for one of my favorite things.

 

Hidden away in a little park is a gorgeous monument of a lion, which represents the Swiss mercenaries who were killed while defending the French King during the French Revolution.

'...the mighty lion rests his paws on his shield, with his head cocked to one side, tears streaming down his cheeks. In his side is the broken-off end of a spear, which is slowly killing the noble beast.'

Standing in front of this monument will cause even street-smart hooligans like me to openly bawl.

 

Once the hiccups and involuntary sobbing are reigned in, I will regain my composure and show you some of the painted buildings in Lucerne.

Some facades worth seeing in Lucerne...

A closer look: 

 

"Wolfgang von Goethe slept here in 1779."

More elaborate paintings...

 

This is a more recently painted Lucerne facade, in a Fastnach--or Mardi Gras theme. This building is a restaurant--its owners, Mr. and Mrs. Fritshi currently alive and well, are depicted in costume on the front. It looks less creepy in the photo than it does in real life.

And so, class, there you have a pretty crappy tour of Lucerne, Switzerland. Is anyone still here? Hello? Helloooooo? Damn.

PS-It's currently snowing outside my window. I am filled with a white hot anger, pouring into my gut like molten lava.

Comments

[kim at allconsuming]

I can not tell you how seriously pissed off it makes me that you live somewhere so fucking beautiful all the goddamn time.

Jesus, just post some shots of a crappy 1960s industrial estate and put me out of my misery.

[babelbabe]

those buildings ROCK. I am tempted to take my paint can out on the roof and have to, much like Mr Plumbean. (You know The Big Orange Splot?)
I LOVE your vacation posts, so there.

[babelbabe]

also, am with Kim. and will add this: must you be so godddamn adorable? I have dimple envy.

[heather]

I was in Lucerne in 1990 and feel so lucky that I got to see the bridge before it burned. Great photos.

[Tuli]

I've never been to Switzerland so keep posting pictures as it's probably as close as I'll ever get.

[Ruth Perras]

Hello, yes, I paid attention. And we spent some time in Luzern. We used to vacation in Brienz, and on the rainy days would drive to Luzern and visit the Verkehrsmuseum with the kids. Lots of fond memories, thank you!

[kmkat]

Mr. Marshal didn't offer the snappy commentary that you do. Wanna teach math?

[Paola]

Team Kim!

Also, thank you for the Swiss tour, it was delightful.

[Badger]

Dude. I luff the slideshow. Who knew there were so many overtly phallic towers in Switzerland? It's like penises on parade up in there! A sausage fest! And now I'm hungry for wurst on a stick.

[Jen]

When do we tour the Frigor factory?

[Green Girl in Wisconsin]

Oh wow, that lion is incredible. Beautiful tour. Thank you.

[Amelia]

I can tell from my dwindling number of comments that my travelogue is boring the pants off people but I'm posting anyway. Someone's got to provide a counterpoint to all those interesting and witty blogs out there. I'm waving the flag!!
Lucerne looks lovely!
And who's the child rocking the orange stockings and pink coat? Awesome!

[fifi]

haha KIM!

I was completely hysterical watching Narnia: I'd be taken away for sedation if I looked at that LIon too long.

[blackbird]

This is a rowdy bunch, isn't it?
If I had seen that terribly sad, DYING lion, my next stop would have been whatever the HELL they call a BAR IN LUCERNE.

Thank you for the tour - I thought you did a great job.

[Mary]

I loved the tour too - and especially those painted buildings.

I will go off and nurse my envy over some kind of chocolate..

[jordan retro 1]

Lying disguises our mortality, our inadequacies, our fears and anxieties, our loneliness in the midst of the crowd. We yearn for the comfort of familiar lies to create a more amenable reality.What do you think?